- #Assemble porsche 911 engine how to
- #Assemble porsche 911 engine series
- #Assemble porsche 911 engine free
#Assemble porsche 911 engine how to
The kit is recommended for people over the age of 14 and it comes with a comprehensive instruction manual that shows you how to assemble it, it also contains historical information about Porsche and the 911. It includes some transparent sections that allow you to see into the engine and watch all the parts moving in unison, which makes it an excellent tool for teaching people how internal combustion engines work.Įach of these kits contain 290 individual parts, no glue is required and the model includes a sound module that replicates the sound of the real engine, as well as the aforementioned LED “spark plugs”, and three AA batteries to make it all move. The engine you see here is an officially licensed 911 engine model that was carefully replicated from an original 2.0 litre motor.
#Assemble porsche 911 engine series
\The addition of two extra cylinders helped give the Porsche 911 engine more swept capacity and more power, and it would stay in production through a series of both major and minor iterations for decades. The air-cooled engine in the back of the original Porsche 911 was a new design with its roots in the older four-cylinder engine that was used in the Porsche 356 and the Porsche 550 Spyder. The final triple-check of bearing clearance is that in this orientation, the lubed rods should slowly drop under their own weight, similar to the wrist pins.This is a detailed model of the original 1966 Porsche 911 flat-six engine, all internal parts move just like they do in the full-size engine – including the pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, cam, valves, and rockers – the spark plugs are LEDs and you can see them illuminate to simulate spark timing. Fantastic fasteners and measuring tool.Įventually we completed all six rods successfully. The extra fine thread on the bolts and the bolt lube lets you sloooowly turn the nut and watch the stretch gauge dial sneak up on the desired range. The rods bolt stretch was easy to setup in this orientation. Final AssemblyĪfter cleaning off the Plastigage, I final reassembled each rod using assembly lube and the GT3 bearings paired with the ARP bolts. Fortunately we had the correct amount of Plastigage squish on all rods. I arranged the rods in their new locations (by weight), the new GT3 bearings, and the old rod bolts torqued to spec.
#Assemble porsche 911 engine free
As you already know, I am a fan of data and you can never have too much of it. Free Shipping 3. If the rod bores, crank rod journals, and bearing thicknesses were within spec, mathematically the bearing clearances should work out, however the Plastigage is a known low-tech additional double-check method. With the crank back on the stand, I wanted to perform one last rod bearing clearance check using green Plastigage. I tightened them as much as was possible with the little hex key as these things can never ever come out unless we are rebuilding again in the future. I installed 9 threaded plugs with green Loctite 620 per the machine shop’s recommendation. There were no signs of machining grit thanks to the machine shop doing a fine job. Final Crank Prep & Bearing Clearance Checkīack on the bench, I cleaned the crank exterior and blew an entire can of carb cleaner into the oil passages and blew everything out with compressed air. you would need a big bump back there to cover it. i dummied up a 911 engine in a bug and it stuck out so far it was ugly. Then I had a safe and sturdy engine stand adapter for my crank. 3.2, webers, 915, complete 73 rear suspension including torsion bar tube. The engine itself uses the crankshaft from the RSR with increased stroke dimensions from 76.4 mm to 80.4 mm. That’s probably strong enough for this operation. The 911 GT3 RS 4.0, launched in 2011, was the final evolution of the 997 GT3 and featured a 4.0 liter flat-six engine, the largest engine offered in a street-legal 911. My eyeballed hole pattern got me 6 holes in the correct spot. Then I drilled the holes with my trusty old press. Next I transfer punched the hole centers onto the engine stand adapter. First I made a paper pattern of the flywheel mounting holes on the crank. I did not have the expensive factory crank holding tool but I did have a generic engine stand adapter laying around so I decided to get creative. With the rods all spec’d out, I turned my attention to my crank and how I should set it up for measuring and hanging the rods. DecemJose Engine, Porsche 911SC Porsche 911 Bottom End Assembly